Germany

Baden is Germany’s warmest and sunniest region, with a climate as Mediterranean as its culture and lifestyle. Thanks to the forested hills of the Odenwald, Vosges, and Black Forest, the vineyards are well-protected from cold winds, yet supplied with sufficient rainfall. A perfect symbiosis. The landscapes are as varied as the terroirs that stamp the character of the wines. In the north,vineyards extend from Tauberfranken, not far from the banks of the Main, to Heidelberg on the Badische Bergstrasse and the hilly Kraichgau district. Further south, between the Black Forest and Rhine meadows, lie the Ortenau district and terraced valleys of the Breisgau district. The ridges of the Kaiserstuhl (an extinct volcano) and Tuniberg (chalky hills covered with loess) draw near the Rhine. Baden’s southernmost vineyards are in the foothills of the Black Forest in the Markgräflerland district and on the slopes overlooking picturesque Lake Constance. The mild climate, its varietal makeup, and diverse soils – glacial deposits (moraine), limestone and shell-limestone, colored marl, clay, loess deposits, weathered granite, and soils of volcanic origin – make Baden a “land of great wine discovery.” Most growers are members of the ca. 100 cooperatives that produce and market about 85% of the region’s wine. The regional cooperative cellars in Breisach are the largest in Europe and the fourth-largest in the world. Exports play a minor role. Nearly half of production is sold in supermarkets; the other half in wine shops and restaurants, or directly to final consumers. At 35 liters in 1997, the per capita consumption of wine and sparkling wine in the Baden and Württemberg regions is the highest in Germany.

Beginning just below Bonn and extending about 100 km/60 miles south along the banks of the Rhine, the Mittelrhein is a beautiful region of steep, terraced vineyards and some of the wine world’s most splendid scenery medieval castles and ruins clinging to rocky peaks, sites of ancient legends where Siegfried, Hagen and the Loreley seem to spring to life. Nearly three-fourths of the vineyards are planted with the noble Riesling grape. The clayish slate soil yields lively wines with a pronounced acidity. In years when the wines are particularly austere, they are sold to the producers of Sekt , Germany’s sparkling wine, where high acidity is an asset. Riesling grapes, steep slate slopes with their sun-drenched vineyards, and the imposing river. Collectively, these elements form the breathtaking landscape of the Mittelrhein, and gave rise to Rhine romanticism. Thanks to its cultural diversity and beauty, the Upper Middle Rhine Valley between Bingen and Koblenz was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002.

It is one of the few wine regions in the world to have received this honor. The region’s some 495 ha (ca. 1,140 acres) of vines are cultivated on both sides of the Rhine. Mightly castles lie in the midst of vines and/or crown the vine-clad slopes. Deeply rooted primarily in weathered Devonian slate, the vines soar upward from the banksof the Rhine at a steep angle to the river. The wines fascinate with their distinctive, long-lasting,fine fruitiness, and are all the more interesting when one considers the great variety of rocky deposits in the soils of individual parcels: quartzite, pumice stone, and red slate. Lots of sunny days, Mediterranean temperatures, and the tempering affects of the water’s broad surface enable growers here to produce terroir-driven, elegant wines with a fine fragrance. The Mittelrhein: a model of wine culture’s great diversity and natural beauty. About one quarter of the region’s wine is produced by seven cooperative cellars. As in the Ahr, nearly all of the wine is consumed locally or sold to visitors.

Moving from east to west, the fairly flat, dimpled landscape evolves into progressively steep slopes. It is a quietly beautiful region, rich in tradition. Early on, its medieval ecclesiastical and aristocratic wine-growers were associated with the noble Riesling grape and, in the 18th century, were credited for recognizing of the value of harvesting the crop at various stages of ripeness from which the Prädikate, or special attributes that denote wines of superior quality, evolved. Queen Victoria’s enthusiasm for Hochheim’s wines contributed to their popularity in England, where they, and ultimately, Rhine wines in general, were referred to as Hock. The world-renowned oenological research and teaching institutes in Geisenheim have contributed significantly to the extraordinarily high level of technical competence in the German wine industry today. Two grape varieties predominate: the Riesling and the Spätburgunder. The former yields elegant wines with a refined and sometimes spicy fragrance; a fruity, pronounced acidity; and a rich flavor. The Spätburgunder wines are velvety and medium- to full-bodied, with a bouquet and taste often compared with blackberries. The Rhine interrrupts its journey from Switzerland to the North Sea only once, when it makes a broad bend at Wiesbaden, where it flows from east to west for some 30 km (20 miles) before its next bend at Rüdesheim, where it resumes it northerly course. Vines have long been cultivated on the south-facing slopes of the northern riverbank, nestled between the Rhine and the protective forests of the Taunus Hills. With the advent of Riesling, the region achieved world fame.

Nearly 80% of its 3,100 ha (some 7,700 acres) are planted with Riesling – a record among wine regions worldwide. The region’s easternmost vineyards overlook the Main River; the westernmost extend from Rüdesheim to Assmannshausen and Lorch. The Rheingau’s cultural landscape is rich in historical buildings and monuments that provide unique settings for festivals, tastings, and auctions. Its geological history is millions of years old, during which its diverse soils developed: quartzite and slate; loess; and gravelly, sandy, and clay sediments of the Mainz Basin, a prehistoric sea – soils that mark the terroirs in which Riesling thrives. The wines: elegant, fragrant Rheingau Rieslings of great finesse and longevity, whether dry or lusciously sweet. The finest fetch tremendous prices at auction. Compared with other German wine regions, the Rheingau has a high proportion of full-time wine-growers; sales of bottled, rather than bulk, wine predominate; and much of the region’s wine is sold directly to consumers. The region enjoys a broad domestic and international following. Compared with other German wine regions, the Rheingau has a high proportion of full-time wine-growers; sales of bottled, rather than bulk, wine predominate; and much of the region’s wine is sold directly to consumers. The region enjoys a broad domestic and international following.

While vines are virtually a monoculture in the Rheingau or along the Mosel, they are but one of many crops that share the fertile soils of this region’s vast farmlands. Steep vineyard sites are confined to small areas near Bingen and south of Mainz along the Rhein Terrasse. Varied soils and the favorable climate make it possible to grow many grape varieties, old and new. In fact, many of Germany’s aromatic, early-ripening new crossings were bred in Rheinhessen by Professor Georg Scheu, after whom the Scheurebe grape is named (pronounced "shoy"). The region boasts the world’s largest acreage planted with the ancient variety Silvaner and is the birthplace of Liebfraumilch, the soft, mellow white wine originally made from grapes grown in vineyards surrounding the Liebfrauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, in Worms. Rheinhessen wines are often characterized as being soft, fragrant, medium-bodied and mild in acidity pleasant, easy-to-drink wines. There are also wines of great class and elegance, with a depth and complexity second to none. Rolling hills, steep terraces, and the Rhine mark the landscape of Germany’s largest wine-growing region. The region’s vineyards are bordered by the Rhine to the north and east; the Nahe River in the west; and in the south, Rheinhessen seamlessly adjoins the Pfalz. The Rhine terraces of Nierstein are known for excellent Riesling. This is also the home of “Glöck,” Germany’s oldest documented vineyard site (AD 742). In addition to Riesling, Müller-Thurgau as well as excellent Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir thrive in all three districts of the region (Bingen in the northwest; Nierstein in the northeast; and Wonnegau in the south) – as does Rheinhessen’s traditional varietal Silvaner. Particularly the chalky terroirs in the vast expanses of rural, hilly countryside around Alzey yield wines of high international standing. This area extending from the hills to the banks of the Rhine boasts a broad range of soils: loess, sand, marl, limestone, clay, Rotliegend, brown earth, quartz, and porphyry. These varied soils, inherent to the region’s terroirs, contribute to the individual character of traditional Rheinhessen wines. There are a large number of part-time wine-growers in the region who sell grapes or bulk wine to commerical wineries and producer associations who make and/or bottle and market the wine. Because of the large number of individual sites, about half the region’s wine is marketed under the name of a few collective sites (e.g. Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, Oppenheimer Krötenbrunnen). About one third of all Rheinhessen wine is exported, not least because it is the primary supplier of the components for Liebfraumilch.

Europe’s northernmost wine-growing region for quality wine production straddles the 51st degree of latitude between Leipzig and Weimar. In the mid-16th century, there were some 10,000 ha (ca. 24,700 acres) of vines in the greater area; today, the region’s 700 ha (ca. 1,700 acres) are cultivated on the slopes that line the gently flowing waters of the Saale, Unstrut, and Ilm rivers. Shell-limestone, colored sandstone, loess-loam, and copper schist soils bring forth fragrant Silvaner, powerful Weissburgunder, and mineral-rich Rieslings of great finesse, as well as red wines, such as Spätburgunder. Viticulture is only possible on well-protected slopes, and requires vigilance and a precise understanding of the terroirs on the part of the growers. The microclimates of the small river valleys provide additional, welcome warmth. Saale-Unstrut beautifully illustrates how complex and elegant “wines of thenorth” can be.

Most of the region’s vines are tended by part-time wine-growers who deliver their crop to the regional cooperative cellars in Freyburg. There are 14 private wine estates that produce and sell their own wine. The state-owned cellars "Kloster Pforta," named after the 12th-century monastery between Bad Kösen and Naumburg, is the region’s largest estate. The amount of wine produced annually varies tremendously, depending on weather conditions, and nearly all of it is consumed locally.

Most of the terraced vineyards of the past have been reorganized to improve efficiency. However, a number still exist, notably the so-called "cliff gardens" near the Neckar’s scenic loops between Besigheim and Mundelsheim. With more than half of its vineyards planted with red wine varieties, Württemberg ranks as Germany’s premier red wine region. The main variety is Trollinger, seldom found outside of this region, followed by Schwarzriesling, also known as Müllerrebe or Pinot Meunier, and Lemberger. An additional 919 ha / 2,270 acres are planted with Spätburgunder, Dornfelder and Portugieser. Much of the wine is light, fruity and easy to enjoy; but deep-colored, rich, full-bodied red wine with great class is also produced here. Riesling is an important variety in Württemberg, accounting for nearly a quarter of the vineyard area, followed by Kerner and Müller-Thurgau. Kerner, a crossing of Trollinger and Riesling, was bred at the region’s oenological research and teaching institute in Weinsberg. In general, the wines are hearty and full-bodied, with a vigorous acidity. The pleasure of wine is as much a part of Württemberg as its coat of arms bearing three stags’ antlers, the emblem of the long-reigning house of the Dukes of Württemberg. The majority of its 11 500 ha (28 400 acres) of vineyards lies between Stuttgart and Heilbronn in the central Neckar Valley – the heart of the region – and in the Rems Valley due east of Stuttgart; vines are also planted in the area between the southern Tauber Valley and Tübingen. The soils consist of various keuper (colored marl) formations and islands of shell-limestone. Traditionally known for its red wines, the region has gained new standing with its highly complex red cuvées. Riesling is the leading white variety. It yields wines that are distinctively more mellow and rounded in character than its counterparts in other German wine-growing regions. Four out of five growers cultivate less than one ha / 2.5 acres of vines. As such, most are members of cooperatives. The regional cooperative cellars in Möglingen process 80% of an average harvest, including the grapes from 36 local cooperatives. An additional 32 local cooperatives make and market their own wine. Exports play a minor role and indeed, very little wine is sold outside of the region. The local inhabitants are thirsty, loyal customers. At 35 liters in 1997, the per capita consumption of wine and sparkling wine in the Baden and Württemberg regions is the highest in Germany.